Walker’s Grille Spring Menu

6909 Metro Park Drive
Alexandria, VA 22310
703-922-6200
http://walkersgrille.com/

American | $$

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Chef Duane Keller has created a wonderful Spring menu at Walker’s Grille. Chef Keller creates complex flavor profiles using a combination of farm fresh locally sourced vegetables and high quality meats. Flavors are rich and blend perfectly.

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There is plenty of outdoor seating with large fans for those warm summer nights.

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The seating is comfortable, not the kind you sink into because it hasn’t been replaced in 20 years.

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Bread is fresh and warm when it comes to the table.

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The Chicken Empanadas with Avocado Puree and Tomato Salsa are incredible. The Avocado Puree is the perfect complement to the chicken.

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For my entrée I chose the Prosciutto Wrapped “day boat” Scallops on Roasted Creamed Corn. The thin prosciutto elevates the flavor above the standard bacon wrapped scallop without the chunky texture of bacon. The light cooking of the prosciutto with the scallop brings out the aroma for the perfect combination. The scallops are paired with a medley of Fingerling Potatoes and Asparagus Hash.

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My wife had the Veal Shank over Pasta with a Mushroom Spinach Cream Sauce topped with Shaved Parmesan. The veal was cooked flawlessly, easily coming off the bone. The Cavatappi pasta is lightly coated in the cream sauce and a nice counterpart to the mild taste of the veal.

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We took the waiter’s suggestion and ordered the Warm Apple Fritters for dessert. These fritters are twice the size of most. This is the best apple fritter I have had. The sugar coated donut around the warm al dente apple slices was unbelievable. It was a hard choice between the fritters and the Peanut Butter Chocolate Pate but I am glad we got the fritters.

Chef Keller has done a masterful job creating this new spring menu. I can’t wait to go back and try more dishes. The service is always first class and even when busy the noise level is not deafening. Walker’s Grille has a 4½-star rating on OpenTable. Make your reservations now before all the Apple Fritters are gone.

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James Beard Award Finalists 2016

The final nominees for the 2016 James Beard Foundation Awards have been named. The awards for top chefs and restaurants will be given out in Chicago on May 2nd. Many links below take you to OpenTable.com so you can make reservations and start enjoying some amazing cuisine. Congratulations to the only nomine from our area Cindy Wolf Chef/Owner Charleston in Baltimore.

Best New Restaurant
Death & Taxes, Raleigh, North Carolina
Launderette, Austin, Texas
Shaya, New Orleans, Louisiana
Staplehouse, Atlanta, Georgia
Wildair, New York, New York

Outstanding Restaurant
Frasca Food and Wine, Boulder, Colorado
Highlands Bar & Grill, Birmingham, Alabama
The Spotted Pig, New York, New York

Outstanding Service
Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocantico Hills, New York
Eleven Madison Park, New York, New York
North Pond, Chicago, Illinois
Quince, San Francisco, California
Topolobampo, Chicago, Illinois

Outstanding Wine Program
Canlis, Seattle, Washington
FIG, Charleston, South Carolina
Sepia, Chicago, Illinois

Outstanding Chef
Donald Link, Herbsaint, New Orleans, Louisiana
Michael Solomonov, Zahav, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Michael Tusk, Quince, San Francisco, California
Sean Brock, McCrady’s, Charleston, South Carolina
Suzanne Goin, Lucques, West Hollywood, California

Rising Star of the Year

Alan Sternberg, Cerulean, Indianapolis, Indiana
Alex Bois, High Street on Market, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Daniela Soto-Innes, Cosme, New York, New York
Edward Sura, Perennial Virant, Chicago, Illinois
Grae Nonas, Olamaie, Austin, Texas

Outstanding Pastry Chef
Dahlia Narvarez, Osteria Mozza, Los Angeles, California
Dolester Miles, Highlands Bar and Grill, Birmingham, Alabama
Ghaya Oliveira, Daniel, New York, New York
Jennifer Yee, Lafayette, New York, New York
Maura Kilpatrick, Oleana, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Meg Galus, Boka, Chicago, Illinois
Maura Kilpatrick, Oleana, Cambridge, Massachusetts

Best Chef: Great Lakes

Abraham Conlon, Fat Rice, Chicago, Illinois
Andrew Zimmerman, Sepia, Chicago, Illinois
Curtis Duffy, Grace, Chicago, Illinois
Erling Wu-Bower, Nico Osteria, Chicago, Illinois
Lee Wolen, Boka, Chicago, Illinois

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic

Cindy Wolf, Charleston, Baltimore, Maryland
Eli Kulp, Fork, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Greg Vernick, Vernick Food & Drink, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Rich Landau, Vedge, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Best Chef: Midwest

Lenny Russo, Heartland Restaurant & Farm Direct Market, St. Paul, Minnesota
Paul Berglund, The Bachelor Farmer, Minneapolis, Minnesota

Best Chef: New York City

Anita Lo, Annisa
Jonathan Waxman, Barbuto
Marco Canora, Hearth
Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, Carbone

Best Chef: Northeast

Barry Maiden, Hungry Mother, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Karen Akunowicz, Myers + Chang, Boston, Massachusetts
Susan Regis, Shepard, Cambridge, Massachusetts

Best Chef: Northwest

Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton, Ox, Portland, Oregon
Justin Woodward, Castagna, Portland, Oregon
Mike Easton, Il Corvo Pasta, Seattle, Washington
Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi, Joule, Seattle, Washington
Renee Erickson, The Whale Wins, Seattle, Washington

Best Chef: South

Isaac Toups, Toups’ Meatery, New Orleans, Louisiana
Justin Devillier, La Petite Grocery, New Orleans, Louisiana
Slade Rushing, Brennan’s, New Orleans, Louisiana
Vishwesh Bhatt, Snackbar, Oxford, Mississippi

Best Chef: Southeast

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Memphis, Tennessee
Steven Satterfield, Miller Union, Atlanta, Georgia

Best Chef: Southwest

Alex Seidel, Fruition, Denver, Colorado
Martín Rios, Restaurant Martín, Santa Fe, New Mexico
Steve McHugh, Cured, San Antonio, Texas

Best Chef: West
Corey Lee, Benu, San Francisco, California
Dominique Crenn, Atelier Crenn, San Francisco, California
Jeremy Fox, Rustic Canyon  Wine Bar, Santa Monica, California
Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, Animal, Los Angeles, California
Matthew Accarrino, SPQR, San Francisco, California
Michael Cimarusti, Providence, Los Angeles, California

Tom & Suzie’s NY Bagel Deli Has A New Sandwich

9110 Devlin Rd #140
Bristow, VA 20136
571-758-3354
http://tsnybd.com/

Bagels | $

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Tom & Suzie’s has begun offering an awesome crab cake bagel sandwich with Boom Boom sauce.

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You can have any combination of the lettuce, tomato, and red onion standard order.

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They use ample lump crab with a nice ratio of regular and panko crumbs for texture and as a binder.

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I like how they have cut the center out of the bagel trimming it down so the bagel doesn’t overwhelm the sandwich. A full bagel with the crab cake would be too much for most people. With the sandwich made to order you have the choice of any fresh bagel.

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The Boom Boom sauce makes the sandwich. Often crab cake is served with traditional Tartar sauce. The Boom Boom sauce is a nice spicy aioli that sets the sandwich apart. They mix Dijon mustard and OLD BAY Seasoning into the crab cake so it comes with a little spice built in. I put all the sauce on my sandwich and came right to the edge of what I like. I recommend asking for the Boom Boom sauce on the side then drizzling it onto the sandwich as you go until you can gauge where it lands on your personal spice tolerance chart. But have some, it’s really is good.

The Inn at Little Washington

The Inn at Little Washington
309 Middle St.
Washington, VA 22747
(540) 675-3800
https://www.theinnatlittlewashington.com/

American | $$$$

I have been putting this post off for some time only because it is hard to find words to describe a dining experience at The Inn at Little Washington. We had been before on our 10th wedding anniversary and had a memorable time. Our plans to go again 15 years later for our 25th anniversary were delightfully interrupted when our dear friend Terry surprised us with a gift certificate for dinner. There was no waiting for our 25th to roll around, it was time to go again.

The most important thing to know about dinner at the Inn at Little Washington is that everything is perfect. From the reservationist to the valet a culture of excellence fills your visit. The food and service are extraordinary. No detail is over looked and any request is fulfilled by staff as if it were second nature. I am certain that if you asked for shaved buzzard beak instead of freshly grated parmesan the waiter would smile, disappear into the kitchen only to return moments later to say alas, buzzard beak is out of season.

The Inn at Little Washington is a special place for special occasions. It is not inexpensive, and for some it will be the most ever paid for a meal. Figure $475 for dinner and gratuity for 2 people with no drinks. It is worth the price. Ask for a tour of the kitchen. It is beautiful and remarkably well ordered. If you visit in the spring or summer take a walk through the gorgeous gardens day or night.

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Cozy seating with an old world décor helps minimize the noise so you can actually have a conversation at dinner without shouting.

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Cucumber wrapped fresh American Salmon Caviar starter from the chef.

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Wonderful warm bread.

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A Chive Gougere and a Shot of Asparagus Soup.

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Chilled Maine Lobster Salad with Marinated Hawaiian Heart of Palm.

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Sashimi of Yellowtail Dusted with Espelette.

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Carpaccio of Herb-Crusted Baby Lamb Loin with Caesar Salad Ice Cream.

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Chilled Veal Tongue with Pickled Root Vegetables and Horseradish Ice Cream.

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Fricassee of Morels, Potato Gnocchi, and Virginia Country Ham with Asparagus Tips.

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Miniature Filet of Antarctic Sea Bass with Lemon Vodka Sauce and Lilliputian Shrimp-Pork Dumplings.

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Pork and Beans: Hickory Glazed Kurobuta Pork Jowl with Gigante Beans.

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Huckleberry Marinated Squab Breast with a Crispy Potato Galette.

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Veal Shenandoah: Local Prosciutto Wrapped Loin of Veal with Country Ham and Fontina Cheese Ravioli.

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Another view of the Veal Shenandoah.

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Parsley Crusted Loin of Jamison Farm’s Lamb with Spinach and Barley “Risotto.”

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A small palate cleanser.

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A Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp for my wife.

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Silky smooth Chocolate Cake for me.

MOD Pizza Comes to Gainesville

MOD Pizza
13959 Promenade Commons St.
Gainesville, VA 20155
571-222-2088
http://modpizza.com/locations/gainesville/

Pizza | $

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Seattle based MOD Pizza opened its first Virginia location in Gainesville last month with the second to follow in Ashburn. MOD stands for “made on demand” with a focus on allowing customers to choose from nearly 50 ingredients and toppings or select one of the 9 named combinations from the menu. Founded in Seattle in 2008 the company has begun a strong franchising push and now has 102 open or forthcoming locations nationwide.

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Plenty of seating.

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I chose the Mad Dog with Mozzarella, pepperoni, mild sausage, crumbled meatballs, and MOD red sauce.

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The sausage had a nice light sweet flavor.

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My 4 slice personal pie was ready in just a few minutes and piping hot from the oven. I could see the super thin crust allows the pizza to cook quickly. The pizza was done perfectly with just a hint of char on the ultra-thin edges. The pizza had a great taste driven mostly by the choice of toppings. With thin crust pizza, and especially one as thin as this, it becomes less about the dough and more about it being just a holder for the toppings. Choose wisely!

This is an assembly line process with you selecting the ingredients much like making a sandwich at Subway. After you pay and it goes in the oven they call your name when your pie is ready. As with most new restaurants the décor does little to lessen the noise. I did not hear them call my name and had to go looking for my pizza. The best news is the price, the 6” personal pizza I ordered is $4.87 and a soda for $2.77. Lunch for under $10 is rare.

DGS Delicatessen Comes to Mosaic

DGS Delicatessen
2985 District Ave.
Fairfax, VA 22031
703-280-1111
http://www.dgsdelicatessen.com/

Deli | $$

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Red Apron Butchery in Mosaic gets real competition for upscale deli sandwiches from DC’s highly regarded DGS Delicatessen. In the finest tradition of a New York Jewish deli DGS comes to Virginia to offer fantastic sandwiches and desserts. Chef Brian Robinson has everything running smoothly in the kitchen and makes sure the dishes are on par with their reputation. As with all beloved classic dishes like barbecue, sausage gravy, or fried chicken, it’s never going to be a good as grandma made. Jewish deli food is no different. It may not be as good as what you grew up with but I guarantee it’s as good as your going to find in Northern Virginia.

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The cotton flour sack napkins are a nice touch.

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My sandwich was the Half Street made with DGS Pastrami, Corned Beef, Sauerkraut, Swiss Cheese and Mustard on Double Baked Rye bread. The corned beef and pastrami are cured, brined, and smoked in house. They do their own pickling and make sides and desserts in house. The Half Street allowed me to try the corned beef and pastrami. They both melt in your mouth. The mustard was smooth and mild. The sauerkraut was good and not too sour. The rye was earthy with just a slight caraway flavor.

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For dessert we had killer Cinnamon Donut Holes filled with a Honey and Apple puree and given a slight powdered sugar dusting. They are served warm and are the perfect combination with no one element overpowering.

There is an abundant and growing list of restaurant choices in the Mosaic section of Fairfax with more opening all the time. Don’t overlook DGS for dinner thinking it’s just deli food. Dinner plates include Grilled Salmon, Grilled Ribeye, and Chicken Schnitzel.

Tom & Suzie’s NY Bagel Deli

9110 Devlin Rd #140
Bristow, VA 20136
(571) 758-3354
http://www.tsnybd.com/

American | $

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After I got out of the service in the early 80s I lived in Jersey and worked in the City. Deli’s were everywhere and an important part of most New Yorker’s lives. They are where you got a bagel with a smear for breakfast, made to order sandwiches for lunch, and something to eat on the train home in the evening. I was excited to learn a New York Deli was opening just down the street. When we rolled up on that opening weekend and saw the line out the door I stopped by during the week.

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On the day we stopped in at lunch time the bagels were not available because there was a problem baking them and Tom and Suzie felt they were not good enough to sell. While I applaud their commitment to quality I am not sure I would have left them in the racks on display. After you see them and are told you can’t have one its torture as you mind thinks you’re dreaming or this has to be Candid Camera. But I get that it’s a tough call for a shop owner trying to make the most out of a bad situation. Leaving them out gives them the opportunity to explain to customers something went wrong and they value their customers enough not to sell them sub-standard food. Suzie gave my wife a cannoli to try and she said it was the best she has had.

On a later visit my bagel was flawless and brought back memories of my days working in New York City. Lightly brown on the outside with a slight crunch and moist but not doughy on the inside. Bagels are best eaten as soon after they are made as possible, try to get them early. I remember being in a deli not long after I landed in New York City. It was late afternoon and I asked the old man behind the counter for a bagel with cream cheese. He looked at me like I was insane and finally said “how about some nice pastrami?” I asked what’s wrong with the bagels. He said “kid, after 3 hours their junk.” They were still edible but to this old bagel maker fresh was the only option.

Tom and Suzie make about 20 flavors and experiment with new ones like French toast. They offer 10 to 12 varieties of Suzie’s home-made cream cheeses. Plain, onion, and garlic bagels are their biggest sellers but the chocolate chip bagel with chocolate chip cream cheese on one side and peanut butter on the other is catching on.

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Farm-to-table is all the rage these days but in the city it’s more about deli-to-table and Tom & Suzie’s sandwiches are great. My favorite is the meatball sandwich with your choice of cheese. Home-made meatballs the size of pool balls are cut in half and served hot on your choice of bread. The recipe comes from Suzie’s mother and was probably handed down from relatives in the old country. They are really good.

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I also enjoy this Angry Paramedic sandwich. It is similar to a  Ruben with Corned Beef, 1000 Isle Dressing and your choice of cheese and Cole Slaw or Sauerkraut. They put pastrami on it for a little extra taste and it’s unexpectedly good. Not traditional but a nice twist.

Before stopping by I looked at the Facebook and Yelp posts about the deli. I was surprised to see people so hard on a new place. Many start with “I really want to see them succeed, but” and then the hammer comes down and you would think they were serving prison food over there. There are few complaints about the ingredients which is not surprising since they use high end Boar’s Head meats, cheeses, and cream cheese. A few mention the bagels are underdone but most are happy with the bagels. The number one complaint is the service is slow.

On a recent visit I sat down with Tom and asked him about the problems and the social media feedback I was seeing. He told me the opening weekend was brutal. The point of sale program was giving them problems and they were overwhelmed with customers. Many more than they had expected which caused them to run out of cream cheese. This resulted in a flurry of “What the hell kind of deli runs out of cream cheese” comments on social media. He also told me it has been hard to find employees. They have hired several young people who they trained but wouldn’t follow directions.

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They should never run out of cream cheese again. On the day I visited they had 360 pounds of Boar’s Head cream cheese in the cooler. Tom feels some critics are needlessly harsh, especially comments about getting someone in there who knows how to run a deli. He worked in a deli for years while in high school and he and Suzie worked for a month at a friend’s deli in Long Island to understand the processes. He points out that each sandwich is made to order by freshly cutting the meat and cheese rather than using pre-sliced products. This adds time to the order process but the key is getting enough employees that will follow direction and work quickly. Transplanted New Yorkers are used to faster service in a deli because they are mostly family owned businesses flush with their kids and cousins making sandwiches. Even Northern Virginians who have never been to a deli are almost always in a hurry. Trying to find the right balance between overstaffing and reliable employees is a challenge Tom and Suzie must meet. After talking with them I believe they really want to provide the best service they can.

I have to wonder had the name been a little different, maybe something like Tom & Suzie’s Handcrafted Artesian Made While You Wait Sandwiches you would have heard less complaining.

Café Bonjour in Haymarket Disappointing

Café Bonjour
14950 Washington St.
Haymarket, VA 20169
571- 248-0810
https://www.google.com/+CafeBonjourHaymarket

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My wife and I headed over to Haymarket a few weeks ago only to find AKT Nourish had changed their hours and no longer offered breakfast. We tried Café Bonjour just a few blocks away but were disappointed. We ordered breakfast and waited 34 minutes for our food to come. The restaurant is small and was not busy so it seemed like a long wait for an omelet and French toast. My wife’s omelet was ok but was just thrown on a plate. No orange slice or wilted dandelion garnish, nothing. The last time I saw such a lonely omelet was in a chow hall 35 years ago.

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My French toast was lukewarm and barely coated in egg wash. It looked like the egg may have been lightly brushed on rather than soaked.

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Without soaking French toast the bread becomes chewy and hard to get down. If you plan on visiting Café Bonjour I would stick with the pastry items, they looked good.

AKT Nourish Begins Dinner Service

AKT Nourish Market and Eatery
15111 Washington St., Suite 113
Haymarket, VA 20169
540-878-8664
http://www.annieskitchentable.com/

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AKT Nourish recently changed their hours, dropping breakfast and moving to lunch and dinner 3 nights a week. The restaurant remains open for lunch Monday through Saturday 11:30am to 3:00pm. Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings they are serving a 3 course Prix Fix dinner from 5:00pm to 9:30pm.

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On a recent visit Chef Johnnie treated me to this outstanding Duck Ham and Warm Blackberries dinner appetizer, a preview of what’s to come. The food is locally source and prepared fresh daily. Expect the menu to change weekly based on seasonal availability. Make reservations soon, tables fill quickly.

2015 James Beard Award Winners Announced

The James Beard Foundation announced the 2015 Restaurant and Chef Awards today. The Best Chef Mid-Atlantic Award went to Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore. Having eaten there only a few weeks ago I believe it is well deserved. The only other award in our area went to Sally Bell’s Kitchen in Richmond who received an America’s Classics Award.