Hunter’s Head Tavern
9048 John S. Mosby Hwy.
Upperville, VA 20184
540-592-9020
http://www.huntersheadtavern.com/

Pub Fare | $$

Hunter’s Head Tavern is found on Rt. 50 in Upperville, the heart of Virginia horse country, just west of Middleburg. They offer an array of organic meats and produce from Ayrshire Farm and others.

Beginning in early April they offer patio seating.

In traditional style you order off the board near the bar, are given a number, and take a seat.

The tavern was originally a home built in 1750.

We started with some great Crispy Risotto Bites with Roasted Red Pepper & Fresh Basil served in a Marinara Sauce with shaved Parmesan. These were done perfectly, with a light golden brown and crispy shell surrounding the rice. The shaved Parmesan reminded me of Italian rice balls known as Arancini.

For my main course I chose the organic beef and pork Ayrshire Hot Dog served with Grilled Onions, Sauerkraut and Ale-Infused Mustard. I was drawn to this because of this rarely seen combination of beef and pork hot dog. As with most organic grass fed meats this had a hearty taste with a mild spice flavor that resonated nicely. The grilled onions were warm but not grilled enough for my taste.

The combination of the spicy mustard and sweet sauerkraut worked well together overpowering the onion flavor on many bites. On my next trip I think I will ask them to hold the onions and go with just the mustard and sauerkraut. The French fries were darker than most which sometimes signals they are over cooked, these were not.

I met my friend Cliff for lunch and he decided on the Wienerschnitzel with Lemon Caper Sauce and fresh vegetables. He said it tasted as good as it looked.

We split this superb Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Bean ice cream. It was rich and may be too much for all but true Chocoholics. But it has sprinkles and who doesn’t love that.

This is a fantastic place for lunch, wonderful food and great service. It is the epitome of farm-to-table when the same people own the farm and the table. There’s no question you’re getting the freshest meal. They also own the Home Farm Store in Middleburg where you can find many of the meats offered at Hunter’s Head.

It can get crowded at lunch time so go early if you can. Upperville hosts America’s oldest horse show June 1 – 7^th this year. Unless you are going to the Upperville Colt and Horse Show I would avoid the area during the first week of June.

Passion Fish Reston
11960 Democracy Dr.
Reston, VA 20190
703-230-3474
http://www.passionfishreston.com/ 

Seafood | $$$

It’s difficult finding good seafood when you can’t see the ocean. With recent revelations that as much as 33% of seafood purchased retail or at restaurants nationally is fraudulently mislabeled, finding a source you can trust is a challenge. Passion Fish is just that place. With a menu focused on seafood, staff that knows about seafood, and chefs that expertly prepare seafood you can’t go wrong.

We started with a nice smooth butter with just a hint of salmon taste to it. The bread was crunchy and not as soft as it looked. My preference is for softer bread but it was fine and we ate most of it.

For my main course I chose my favorite, Caramelized Jumbo Sea Scallops with Potato Pancakes and Heirloom Baby Carrots drizzled with a Smoked Bacon Vinaigrette. The plating on this dish surprised me and I must have been muttering something about how many scallops there were when my wife said “you know they’re not all scallops, some are potato pancakes.” Visually I got hoodwinked into missing that every other scallop was actually a lightly crisped potato pancake. In my defense most pancakes you see don’t look like that.

My scallops were done flawlessly, browned nicely and not over cooked. The carrots were tasty and prepared to a perfect point between raw and mushy. There is not much that must be said about Smoked Bacon Vinaigrette other than heavenly.

My wife chose the Rockfish with Lemon Beurre Blanc and Smoked Bacon Collard Greens as a side. Her fish was excellent, nice and tender under a slightly blackened skin. She raved about the Lemon Beurre Blanc saying the buttery lemon flavor was pleasantly mellow.

I was not born in the South so I don’t have that Collards gene. I’m content taking my wife’s word on how good they are when we’re dining out. She loved these Collard Greens, the smoked bacon flavor paired nicely with the smooth lemon butter in alternating bites.

This is one of the few places you can get away with themed salt and pepper shakers.

I kid you not the menu says Warm Donut Holes with Coffee Bavarian Cream. Sure, if you’re working with a 22 pound donut. This was a wonderful Beignet with a sugar coating instead of powdered sugar. This is also a dessert for 2. As much as I live for dessert this was a lot to eat at the end of the meal. I’m a big coffee drinker but not a fan of coffee flavored other things. The coffee flavored Bavarian cream was a nice surprise. The flavor is mild and not overpowering in a Starbucks kind of way. Don’t be afraid to try this unique approach to coffee and donuts.

My wife’s dessert was a fantastic Florida Key Lime Tart with a Graham Cracker Crust and Toasted Coconut Sorbet. The tart was delicious, a perfect balance of crunch from the crust and a smooth key lime flavor. The meringue was attractively browned and it held its shape marvelously. As with all the sauces and creams we tasted the chefs really know where that fine line is between ambrosial flavor and harsh abundance. I rarely order key lime pie because I am so often disappointed by the tart taste that has me pushing it away after 2 bites. They really nailed the essence of key lime here.

Our waiter Jon knew the menu inside and out and answered our questions with detail. A properly trained staff doesn’t happen by accident. Passion Fish manager Ryan McCarthy received a 2015 Manager of the Year Rammy Award nomination from the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington this week. Lighting is ample but the noise level was high at 79 decibels making it hard to hear for some. We dined on a Tuesday evening without reservations and were seated promptly. It was about 80% full so I would not recommend Friday or Saturday nights without a reservation.

Make Passion Fish Reston your trusted source for quality seafood prepared right.

One Block West
25 South Indian Alley
Winchester, Virginia 22601
540-662-1455
www.oneblockwest.com

American | $$

We got just what the sign says, sensational seasonal cuisine. Located a block from the main shopping area of downtown Winchester is One Block West, a wonderful oasis for food lovers.

There is plenty of seating and I love to see round tops in restaurants. We often dine with groups of friends and the round tables make it easier for everyone to share food and conversation.

There is a nice secluded table set for two for romantics or spies.

For my appetizer I chose the House-Cured Crispy Pork Belly on Grits with a Poached Egg and Hickory Syrup. Crispy pork belly, aside from being bacon on steroids, is an amazing textual experience. The crisp outer layer gives way to layers of fat and meat. Everything we love about bacon. Throw in some smooth grits, a poached egg, and hickory syrup for added flavor and you have a complete meal in an appetizer.

My wife ordered the Sweet and Sour Brussels Sprouts with Pork Belly Glazed with White Balsamic Vinegar and Sugar. She said they were great and I should try them. If ever I would going to like Brussels sprouts these would be them. I had to pass since I see no point in loving them at One Block West and hating them everywhere else. I was also a little afraid if I said I liked them she would start cooking them at home, smelling up the whole house.

Our friend Jane ordered the Pan-Seared Sea Scallops with Smoked Salmon Mousse, Salmon Caviar, and a Salmon Sauce. The scallops were seared nicely and just about anything moussed is divine. This is a marvelous combination giving the scallops a slight boost in flavor.

For my main course I decided on a Cassoulet with Grilled Bison Sausage served with Creamy Steuben Yellow Eye Beans, Duck, Duck Confit, Port and Pork Sausage. The Cassoulet (meat and bean stew) was off the charts good. Not too salty, just a deep rich ambrosial flavor that reflected hours of simmering. This is the first time I have seen Bison Sausage on a menu. I have had Bison burgers and was underwhelmed. This sausage is the opposite. It had a delicious taste, mildly sweet and not gamy. I am not sure if this is on the menu regularly but if you see it you should try it.

My wife chose the Grilled Moulard Duck Breast with Sweet Potato-Parsnip Purée and Braised Fennel. The duck was perfectly grilled and paired nicely with the purée to soften the stronger dark fatty flavor of the duck.

Jane ordered the Grilled Lamb Chop with Rosemary-Oregano White Beans, Feta Cheese, and Grape Tomatoes. I barely averted my eyes from my own dish so I missed out on tasting this. From what I remember at a glance it looked good.

Our waiter was knowledgeable and attentive. There was no noise to speak of because we ate early and were alone for the first half of our dinner. Chef/owner Ed Matthews has done a masterful job of creating a culinary gem in Winchester. There is plenty to see and do in Winchester. The Old Court House Civil War Museum is interesting and has rare Civil War graffiti left by prisoners. Next time you are in town plan your visit so you have time to go to One Block West for a fantastic meal.

Hi Neighbor Country Restaurant
192 W. King St.
Strasburg, VA 22657
540-465-9187
www.hineighborva.com

American | $

Hiding in plain sight on Strasburg’s main street is the ultimate small town comfort food restaurant. This gem goes largely un-noticed by visitors in town for antiques and the wonderful local museum. That changed when the article Best of the Blue Ridge mentioning Hi Neighbor Restaurant appeared in the October 2014 issue of Saveur Magazine. Not long after seeing the article we were in Strasburg and stopped in.

Functional over fancy is just fine with us.

No cappuccino machine in sight so for me it all started with black coffee.

One of the first things I saw walking in was a plate of the Southern staple sausage gravy over biscuits being served. The sausage gravy perfectly combined savory sweet sausage and smooth creamy gravy. Sausage gravy is a dish made from equal parts quality smoky sausage and a gravy, mixed to a perfect consistency that is neither watery nor thick as porridge. If one element is off the other falls. If you are new to this dish and want to be a fan this is the place to try it.

The pancake side covered much of the plate and was not super fluffy or doughy.

Good home-made corned beef hash is scarce today. Hash has been going downhill since Hormel started cramming it in cans back in the fifties. I know most corned beef hash I see on menus comes out of a can so I avoid it. Because I knew everything here was home-made with fresh ingredients I could not wait to try it. The corned beef, peppers, onions, and potatoes mix was perfectly balanced with the flavor of the corned beef foremost.

Two pieces of sweet moist buttery cornbread came with the meal.

My wife chose a special of Fried Catfish topped with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and mushrooms. She said the lightly breaded catfish was just right. She also loved her sides.

This delicious never been frozen banana cream pie was wonderful and a great way to finish the meal.

Owners Sam and Pat Mumper have done a wonderful job of creating a cozy neighborhood restaurant with high quality home-cooked food. Sam learned his craft working under French Chef Roger Mallet and Swiss-born Chef René Debon. After coming to town to work at the Hotel Strasburg in the 1990s Sam and Pat bought the restaurant in 1995.

When you are out in the northern Shenandoah Valley don’t forget Hi Neighbor Restaurant in downtown Strasburg. It’s the best place around for fresh affordable home-cooked meals.

105 S. Coalter St.
Staunton, VA 24401
540-490-1961
http://theshackva.com/

American | $$$

On a recent Saturday morning I was checking out StarChefs.com’s 2014 list of D.C.’s rising star chefs when I came across a restaurant I did not know, Chef Ian Boden of The Shack. A quick search found the restaurant in Staunton, VA and several stellar reviews. Most notably Tom Sietsema of the Washington Post and Josh Ozersky of Esquire. The Shack was also named one of the 2014 top 100 Best Restaurants in the South by Southern Living Magazine. Their web page allowed me to make a reservation for that evening so we set off on the 2 hour drive down Rt. 81 to Staunton.

The Shack is small, 7 tables seat 26. Only one table is a 2 top so couples must share a table. When we arrived for the first seating they had us at the 2 top in the back with dim lighting. When we asked if we could switch to the first table with better lighting the staff was more than accommodating but warned us we would have to share a table. I needed better light for pictures so all I could do was hope I wouldn’t have to struggle through dinner with some bloviating fool.

As luck would have it a fellow foodie named Rafe sat down with his mother and we had a great time. In town from Florida to see 2 shows at the American Shakespeare Center’s Blackfriars Playhouse. He is one of the most amazing 10 year olds I have met. He ate everything and was excited about the food. When I mentioned I like Indian food he rattled off a complete Indian meal as though he were reading a menu. We had a great time especially when we got squid ink on our napkins.

For my 1^st starter I chose the Grilled Octopus with Rye Berries and Green Onion on Yellow Mustard Aioli. I am not a huge fan of octopus but this was cooked flawlessly. It had great texture and was not tough or rubbery. Octopus is a mild seafood so the mustard aioli was the perfect choice to create more body in the dish.

My wife had the Warm Butter Lettuce Salad with Watermelon Radish, Cracklins, Cilantro, and a Kimchi Vinaigrette as her 1st starter. My wife ate most of this but I had to try the combination of a pork rind with kimchi vinaigrette. The crunch, spice, and salt mixture was interesting and tasty.

For my 2nd starter I had the Black Truffle Spaccatelli with Roasted Crones, Beach Mushrooms, and Hazelnuts. This was by far the most fascinating dish of the night. I have not had roasted crones. After about five minutes of tasting and discussion we finally asked the waiter to explain them. They are a crunchy small tuber about half an inch long. They look like miniature charred grub worms that have a sweet slightly nutty flavor. Native to Asia they are locally grown on a farm near Charlottesville.

My wife’s 2nd starter was the Taylor Bay Scallops with Cider Braised Delicata, Chorizo, and Squid Ink. Scallops cooked and served in their shells was another first for us. The presentation was delightful and the blend of scallops and chorizo was scrumptious.

For her main course my wife chose the Roast Quail with Chestnut Cornbread Stuffing, Pumpkin, Brussel Sprouts, and Cranberries. I am not a big fan of Brussel sprouts so I steered clear of this dish. She said it was wonderful and would order it again.

I selected the Wagyu Oyster Steak with Marrow Cauliflower Purée, Kale, Braised Shallots, and a Madeira Sauce for my main course. As expected my steak was very flavorful. Wagyu beef has 30 to 40 percent more marbling than most American Choice beef found in grocery stores. The braised shallots were excellent with the purée and Madeira sauce. Made from a beef stock roux with the sweet Portuguese Madeira wine, the complex flavor of the Madeira sauce was a great choice for the Wagyu beef.

My dessert was an easy choice, Chocolate Cinnamon Pot de Crème with 2 Orange Sugar Cookies. The silky smooth pudding had just a hint of cinnamon and was delectable.

My wife ordered the Buttermilk Ricotta with a Honey Comb, Orange, Olive Oil, and Vanilla Toast. Many restaurants offer a cheese plate as dessert these days. Let’s be clear, cheese is not a dessert. It’s European to have cheese after dinner but in many American restaurants because it is being offered after the main course it is mistakenly labeled dessert. Chocolate is dessert, ice cream is dessert, cheese is NOT dessert. What drew our attention to this dish is the honey comb and vanilla toast. The honey comb was enchanting. When you bite into it you get the immediate sweet honey burst of flavor while the comb melts in your mouth.

It was a pleasure meeting Chef Boden and I know fellow foodie Rafe was super excited about having his picture taken with the chef. It’s fun to go to a restaurant and try something new but on this trip we had our first tries of crones, scallops in their shells, and honey comb which qualifies as an inventive menu. The staff is professional and attentive. The noise level is minimal because of the restaurant size and if you want to take pictures ask for a table near the front for the best lighting.

You don’t have to come to Virginia to enjoy a Chef Boden meal. On February 2, 2015 Chef Boden will create a special dinner at New York’s famed James Beard House. Reservations are still available.

Dinner was phenomenal and worth the 2 hour drive.

206 S. Royal
Front Royal, VA 22630
540-636-9293
http://jsgourmet.com/element

American | $$

My wife and I joined a friend in Front Royal for a wonderful dinner at Element recently. We have eaten several times at Element’s sister restaurant Apartment 2g upstairs above Element. Chefs David and Stacy Gedney opened Apartment 2g in 2003 after meeting and working at the venerable Inn at Little Washington. Dining at Apartment 2g was always a treat. The food was great and the funky setting of a few small tables in each room of the apartment was unique and fun. The kitchen was down the hall and open if you wanted to wander in and see your food being prepared. Those not wanting to leave their seat were able to watch the kitchen through a closed circuit TV in each room. Today Apartment 2g is on a limited schedule with the focus on Element.

We started with a delightful carrot ginger soup. The perfect consistency and great taste was not over powered by ginger.

Our friend had the Pork Saltimbocca a Pork Loin stuffed with Sautéed Spinach, Provolone, Ham, & Parmesan with Roasted Potatoes and Sautéed Squash.

My wife had the Mignonettes of Beef Au Poivre with Loaded Smashed Potatoes & Broccoli. The beef is a heavily peppered French dish with a strong but not overwhelming pepper crust. The waiter warned us she would need a fondness for pepper flavor to enjoy the dish. It was a tender choice cut with a fine peppery coating making each bite mouthwatering.

For my dinner I ordered the Pan Seared Scallops over Egg Noodles with Roasted Fennel, Apples, and Butternut Squash with a Pumpkin Butter Cream Sauce. The scallops were cooked perfectly, not overdone or burnt. The Pumpkin Butter Cream Sauce was amazing. The aroma was heavenly. Its consistency was closer to butter than cream, yet it had a creamy smooth texture with incredible flavor. With only six scallops I would have finished within a minute had it not been for the noodles and apples. Often I see this dish with simple linguine, rice, or a green vegetable like asparagus. The wider egg noodles were a nice choice, giving the dish more body.

We ate early and watched the small restaurant fill quickly. Use of the patio is limited as we head into colder weather so I would strongly recommend reservations. Two guys took our order and brought the food. I hesitate to call them waiters only because they pulled duty as bartenders and Maître d. They knew the menu inside and out and were happy to answer all our questions. We don’t drink so I can’t speak to the quality of their wine selection only to say it looked large.

They offer several great looking sandwiches for lunch so I think our next trip to Element will be in the afternoon. If you are anywhere near Front Royal it is worth a call to see if they have room for you to enjoy dinner. You won’t be disappointed.

Inn at Kelly´s Ford
16589 Edwards Shop Road
Remington, VA 22734
(540) 399-1779
http://www.innatkellysford.com/

American | $$

Not far from Culpeper, VA adjacent to the Rappahannock River and across from the C.F. Phelps Wildlife Management Area is the picturesque Inn at Kelly’s Ford. Set on a 500 acre estate the Inn overlooks the Kelly’s Ford Civil War Battlefield. We had a wonderful time meeting friends for brunch and talking with Chef Jean Paul Pessaint.

The Inn is surrounded by rolling hills and manicured horse paddocks.

The 30 seat main dining room is furnished in a style reminiscent of the civil war time period.

The salad was a nice mix of fresh locally grown greens.

My wife began brunch with the Soup du Jour a delightful Roasted Red Pepper.

One friend chose the Eggs Benedict, a Toasted English Muffin topped with Poached Eggs, Canadian Bacon covered in a Hollandaise sauce.

The Belgium Waffle was made perfectly with a great flavor and an ever so light crust.

I decided on the Chef’s special of Veal Chop with Mustard Gravy. This bone-in veal loin chop was an excellent tender cut with a pleasant taste. The mustard gravy was amazing. I was concerned the mustard taste would overwhelm but it was perfect. A delicate balance of a spiced mild mustard in a smooth gravy.

All the dishes except the Belgium Waffle arrived with the same potatoes and corn. My first observation is always visual. The dish looked bland because all 3 items were nearly the same color. You don’t realize how important color is to the culinary experience until you’re stuck by its absence. Fortunately we came to eat not just look and everything was great.

My wife ordered a crab omelet she said was the best she has had. The photo I took was not usable but it looked splendid.

Blueberry Crème Brûlée.

Raspberry Chocolate Cake.

Bread Pudding

Almost every time I’m asked what I would like for dessert I request a double order of Butterscotch Pudding only to be disappointed when I am told it’s not on the menu. I was happy to see this Butterscotch Chiffon Pie with Walnuts and a Sweet Carmel Sauce. The butterscotch pudding base was topped with a light airy butterscotch chiffon. The flavor was a perfect rich classic butterscotch. I couldn’t finish the Carmel sauce, it was very sweet and a little goes a long way.

Casual dining is available downstairs in Pelham’s Pub with access to an outside patio when the weather is nice. During the summer the Inn hosts many weddings so reservations are recommended.

Super Mini Walnut Café
2770 Arapahoe Rd., Suite 116
Lafayette, CO 80026
720-328-9208
http://www.walnutcafe.com/

American | $

Plenty of seating inside and out in this wonderful small café. We came for breakfast with a friend on a weekday and watched the restaurant fill quickly. Our friend told us they often find a line of people waiting to get in on the weekends. Their 2 Boulder locations are just as busy on the weekend.

 

There is a wide array of specials daily.

My coffee was good but my wife’s Walnutty Latte was excellent. It had a fall or almost Christmassy taste to it.

I had a great Eggs Marcos, scrambled eggs with Bacon, Cream Cheese, and melted Cheddar Cheese. Each dish comes with 2 sides. I chose grits and French toast. Don’t expect stone ground grits made with milk like you might get in Charleston or Savannah. The grits are simple white hominy grits, fundamentally tasteless. People who eat grits regularly know you have to add salt, butter, and other things to give them flavor. Mine was great with butter, a little salt, and maple syrup.

I prefer French toast soaked thoroughly and this thin bread ensured it was prepared just right.

My wife and our friend had an excellent vegetable Quiche of the Day with fruit and fresh baked Banana Raisin bread. Cooked perfectly, it had great texture and superb flavor. I am not a big quiche fan but this was really good.

This Walnut Café serves breakfast and lunch from 0700 – 1430 hours while the Boulder locations are open an additional hour until 1530 hours. They have a good selection of gluten free breakfast items and everything was super fresh. The staff was friendly and made you feel like they were happy to see you. There was no need to check the noise level since we were in a smaller room off to the side with one other couple.

This breakfast was just what we needed before our flight from Denver home and another reason to visit friends there again soon.